Most budget French whites are wallpaper. This is one of the few I actually restock.

The Gaudrons have been making Vouvray since 1890 — four generations of one family on the same 25 hectares in Vernou-sur-Brenne, just off the Loire.

They still age the wine in 13th-century cellars dug straight into the limestone. One grape only: Chenin Blanc. No diversifying, no chasing trends — just the local variety, done the way the family's done it for over a century.

In the glass it's dry, but not lean. Lemon and wet-stone minerality pull it tight; a honeyed edge keeps it from turning austere. Picture the mineral cut of a good Sancerre, with a little more flesh on the bone.

The winemaking is hands-off and honest. Picked for acidity, fermented in stainless steel, no oak — nothing between you and the fruit.

Pour it cold next to grilled fish or a wedge of Brie. Truth is, I just park it in the fridge door and reach for it when the day's done.