My problem with this wine is that I suspect the case I bought as futures was somehow slightly damaged in shipment, as none of the bottles from my own collection were ever as good as those tasted elsewhere. Tasted four times in 2002, all from other cellars, the wine was absolutely brilliant. This is a candidate that tasted so delicious young, I would have never expect it to be so magnificent 20 years later. Nevertheless, it is an example of how balance and concentration, in spite of extremely low acidity and sweet tannin, can fool even experienced tasters. The wine has not fully matured in over a decade, and shows no signs of decline. There is considerable amber to the color, but the aromatics are spectacular. Notes of Christmas fruitcake intermixed with jammy black currants, sweet kirsch liqueur, toasty oak, licorice, and truffle are stunningly intense and persistent. In the mouth, this is all silk, with a voluptuous texture, almost unctuous thickness to the concentrated fruit, and a long, lush, heady finish. It is a slightly deeper wine than either the 1989 or 1990, but at the same time slightly heavier, no doubt because of the elevated alcohol and glycerin. Nevertheless, this is prodigious stuff.
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