My ratings on the 1979 Private Reserve have inched up as it begins to justify some of the lavish hype the wine received after its release. It remains a youthful, backward Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove to be one of the longest-lived 1979s. The wine exhibits a dark ruby color with no lightening at the edge. No aged bouquet has yet developed, but an attractive perfume of sweet red and black fruits, vanilla, herbs, and earth is pleasing. In the mouth, there is outstanding richness, full body, crisp, underlying acidity, and moderate tannin in the finish. This wine appears to have broadened, gained weight, and expanded on the palate without losing any of its youthful quality. It still needs 5-6 years of cellaring and should keep for 20 years.
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