2021 Michele Chiarlo Nizza La Court Riserva Piedmont 6pk 6x750ml

Michele Chiarlo put his name on a label in 1956. His father Pietro was farming vines in Bubbio in 1898, and his sons Stefano and Alberto run the estate now, with Stefano making the wine. In 1995 the family bought La Court and built it to be, in their words, the chateau of Nizza. This bottle is that idea, thirty years in.

The vineyard is three hectares in Castelnuovo Calcea, planted in 1976, on the calcareous clay marl locals call astiane sands, facing south at 240 meters. They thin to five or six bunches a vine at the end of summer and pick by hand. The Riserva is made only in vintages the family considers excellent.

In 2021 a cool spring gave way to a long, hot, dry summer, and the harvest came in September 20 to 24 with fruit Stefano called outstandingly ripe. He expects this vintage to be remembered for structure, depth and aging potential.

In the cellar it fermented 15 days in 55-hectoliter oak vats, then aged 30 months, most of it in large barrels with a portion in barrique for a year, and another 18 months in bottle before release. Wine Enthusiast scored the 2021 at 95.

It is all Barbera, which is the point: the acidity stays high and the fruit stays fresh even at 14.5 percent alcohol. Black cherry, plum, cocoa, coffee, and a texture the winery calls velvety. My read is that it has the depth of a serious Piedmont red and none of the wait.

Open one this month and let the other five sit; there are years in this wine.

If anyone tells you Barbera is a lunch wine, pour them this.