The 1999 “Vinha do Fojo” (Quinta do Fojo) is intense and rather bright. There was bitterness on the finish with the opening of this wine. I rather liked how this evolved, however, as it became a gentler, sunnier wine, with a flavorful finish and liveliness, losing most of that bitter note. The mid-palate is elegant in weight, but by no means delicate. There is some really good, really flavorful fruit here, which keeps asserting itself as the wine airs out. I had my doubts, but I think this eventually made a believer out of me, as the tannins moderated nicely with air. It needed about an hour. Drink now-2012.
This producer is related to the co-owner/co-winemaker Jorge Borges of Pintas fame, and makes some cult-y wines of her own. From what I saw here, they walk the walk, and this was one of the more impressive groups of wines I reviewed. They are certainly pricey, and they have a rather old-fashioned approach to tannins to some extent, but they deliver.- MS
*Vintage in the image does not correspond to the actual one.
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