2024 Kistler 'Les Noisetiers' Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

Les Noisetiers means "the hazelnut trees," a nod to the nutty character this wine is known for.

Steve Kistler founded Kistler Vineyards in 1978 with a Burgundian idea: Chardonnay that tastes of the place it grew. Nearly fifty years on, the house still farms its own heritage Chardonnay clone, selected over decades, and gives a vineyard its own label only once that site has earned it.

The New York Times named Steve as “A Cult Winemaker” applauding his contribution to California Chardonnay. And Food and Wine Magazine's Wine Guide considers this Chardonnays the "Best of the Best" among "Star Producers”

Les Noisetiers is where several of those vineyards come together. The 2024 draws mainly on Vine Hill, Trenton Roadhouse, Dutton Ranch and Laguna Ridge, all in the cool, fog-touched Russian River Valley and all on Goldridge sandy loam.

Picking happens at night, by hand. The clusters go into the press whole for a long, gentle pressing straight to barrel. Native yeast does the fermenting. Ten months on the lees follow, then the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

What I like is that it doesn't lean on the oak. Citrus and hazelnut sit up front, the richness stays in the background, and it carries its weight lightly.

Aging: 10 months on the lees in barrel, 38% new oak.