The 2000 Fojo (Quinta do Fojo) has already thrown a heavy sediment. It is reasonably deep, although not quite as deep as the 2000 Manuela reviewed here, and the fruit is flavorful, bright and persistent in its flavors, throwing off plums and black cherries. There are astringent tannins on the finish that are initially fierce, then fade as the wine seems to come around quickly, the stress there being on the word “seems,” as in fact it is rather dumb on opening and in need of a couple of hours to hit its stride. It continues to evolve impressively with air, and the fruit becomes ever more flavorful as it begins to assert itself. Actually, I began thinking that this was quite delicious. It remained rather intense and focused with further aeration. This is more open and elegant than the Manuela, if you need a comparison. This needs to develop well in the cellar to justify its score, but obviously I think that it will. I think it is another wine that Bordeaux lovers will like a lot. Drink 2007-2020.
This producer is related to the co-owner/co-winemaker Jorge Borges of Pintas fame, and makes some cult-y wines of her own. From what I saw here, they walk the walk, and this was one of the more impressive groups of wines I reviewed. They are certainly pricey, and they have a rather old-fashioned approach to tannins to some extent, but they deliver. -MS
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