2004 Zyme Kairos Veneto Rosso IGP

Celestino Gaspari may not be a name you recognize from the Valpolicella, but his hand has touched some of the most important wines to ever come out of the region. After marrying Giuseppe Quintarelli's daughter, Celestino apprenticed with the master for a dozen years until 1997. Celestino then ventured off on his own and consulted at several top properties in the region including Bertani and Romano dal Forno. In 1999, he launched Zyme, his own project from his garage.

Zyme is Greek for "yeast". The logo for the winery and the winery itself is a pentagon, which mirrors the grape leaf. If you're ever in the area, the winery must be seen to be believed as it's an incredible dichotomy of modernity and natural winemaking built above a 15th-century sandstone quarry. There is literally an underground stream running in between the huge boulders in the cellar that help maintain natural humidity. It is a contemporary winery that oozes eco-sustainability.

Everything about Celestino and Zyme is like peeling an onion. Layer upon layer is gradually revealed in the label, the symbols, the names, the blends, and in the wines he crafts too. From the first scent of the nose on the wine, you'll be drawn in, wanting to know more about the wine, the man, and the place. The winemaker is a philosopher and a competitive person striving to experiment and tinker until he can produce the perfect wine.

If you love aged Italian wines, this wine over-delivers. Celestino's top wine is Harlequin and it's priced similar to the top Amarone of the region (>$300/btl) Kairos is the second wine, made similar to Harlequin. It's an experimental blend that with age has transformed into a true experience that must be tasted to be appreciated. 

The label shows the link of Kairos to the Harlequin project: Harlequinʼs costume is composed of pieces of many colors, just as the wine is composed of 15 different grapes, each with its own characteristics. In ancient Greek, Kairos means “opportune, at the right moment.” The addition of the sundial and the clock express the idea of exact time.

Aging: 24 Months in 100% New French Oak

Tasting notes: Red Wine. 15 Different Varietals (4 white, 11 red: Garganega, Trebbiano toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syraz, Teroldego, Croatina, Oseleta, Sangiovese, Marzemino) with some air drying of grapes prior to fermentation.

In the glass, the wine is a dense ruby red, with garnet highlights. The nose explodes with rich and complex fruit. Driven by fruit, spices, marmalade, and forest floor, followed by pipe tobacco, cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. A kiss of minerality following the complex palate put the tremendous depth of this wine on display. Pairs with elaborate dishes of all meats with hearty and spicy sauces. Excellent with aged and full-flavored cheeses and with game.

Run, don't walk to purchase this wine. This wine delivers the joy we all need.

**Special Note Regarding Older, Vintage Wines like this: Red wines lose color with age. Unfiltered red wines like this have sediment and this has nothing to do with the quality of the wine. The cork may be moist or even crumble, but this doesn't effect the quality of the wine either, as long as the bottle isn't leaking. This particular wine benefits from 30 minutes of aeration prior to service.