2019 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

The Oremus vineyard sits at the geographical heart of Tokaj in northeastern Hungary, and its greatness was first spoken of in 1630. Today, it holds the greatest universal acclaim among Tokaj vineyards — a reputation four centuries in the making. In 1993, the Alvarez family behind Vega Sicilia founded Tokaj-Oremus Vinedos y Bodegas, bringing the same obsessive standards that built one of Spain's most legendary estates to Hungary's most storied vineyard.

Aszu 5 Puttonyos represents the soul of Tokaji: five baskets of noble botrytis-affected berries added to each 136-liter barrel of base must, macerated until they swell, then fermented slowly in new Hungarian oak for up to a month. The wine matures for two years in barrel, then another two to three in bottle before release. This is the same process used for hundreds of years — a methodology that produces the finest balance between sweetness and acidity the vintage can offer. Only exceptional years allow the development of noble rot; 2018 delivered.

The 2018 vintage gave the grapes ideal conditions: a cold winter with abundant precipitation, consistent spring rainfall, warm summer sun, and a warm autumn perfect for botrytis development. Berries were picked with high sugar content and extraordinary quality. The finished wine shows 12% alcohol, 129 g/l residual sugar, and a bracing 8.4 g/l acidity — the structural tension that makes great Tokaji immortal.

James Suckling awarded this wine 96 points, calling it "elegant" with "aromas of waxed lemons, honeyed pineapple, sweet apricots, cream and marmalade. Fresh and really integrated, with a medium to full body and a long, smoothly rendered finish." The texture has a crepe de chine feel — pure and intense with luscious nectarine, red apple, quince and frangipane, cut by a thick layer of candied orange peel and marmalade. The assertive acidity carves the flavors and carries the sweetness with ease. Cellaring potential is 40 years in proper conditions, but it's singing now.