2020 Castello Banfi Summus Toscana IGT

Banfi built its name on Brunello. Summus is what the same estate makes when it stops answering to Sangiovese.

Two Italian-American brothers, John and Harry Mariani, started buying land south of Montalcino in 1978. The money came from importing Lambrusco to America. They ended up with nearly 3,000 hectares, a third of it vines, and a medieval castle, Poggio alle Mura. They planted the Sangiovese everyone expected. They also planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Summus arrived in 1985, and the name is Latin for "highest." Subtle, no. Accurate, yes.

The 2020 is a three-grape blend built on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The year ran hot and dry, but the late-summer nights stayed cool, so the fruit ripened slowly instead of cooking. Each variety ferments on its own in Horizon tanks, the steel-and-oak fermenters Banfi designed and patented. Then comes about eighteen months in 350-liter French oak.

What comes out is deep, dark and polished. Blackberry and baked plum first, then tobacco, coffee and sweet spice. The tannins are big but soft-edged, and the finish keeps going. It drinks well tonight. It also has a decade and more in it if you can wait.

This is the Banfi I hand to people who think they already know Banfi. Black label, metal badge on the front. Open it next to a steak and let it argue its own case.