2021 Guerrieri Guerriero Bianco Marche IGT 6pk 6x750ml

Azienda Agraria Guerrieri has farmed the land in Piagge, in the Marche region, since the early nineteenth century — one of those quietly exceptional family estates that have survived on the quality of the fruit alone.

The Guerriero Bianco is their top cuvee, and renowned Italian wine critic Luca Maroni described it as "one of the best Italian wines, with extraordinary intensity, rich fruit aromas, rare texture, softness and complete aromatics." That's the kind of praise reserved for bottles that retail north of $50.

This is Verdicchio — one of Italy's most underrated white grapes — grown in the rolling hills of Marche and vinified with serious intent. Late harvest, partial fermentation in wood, then traditional cement tank aging for 10 months followed by four months in French oak. The result is a wine with the depth and texture of Burgundy without the sticker shock.

In the glass: bright pale gold, perfumed with lemon pith, citrus blossom, melon skin, orange blossom, and rose. The palate shows honey, dried apricot, marshmallow, a trace of oatmeal, satsumas — round, polished, delicate, with enough body to stand up to richer dishes. Fresh, fruity, floral, and surprisingly detailed for the price.