2022 Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Zwickl Naturtrub Gruner Veltliner Wachau Austria

Nikolaihof is the oldest wine estate in Austria — its foundations trace to a Roman tower from 63 B.C., with documented winemaking back to 470 A.D. The Saahs family has owned the estate since 1894, and in 1971 they became one of the earliest biodynamic practitioners in the world, earning Demeter certification in 1998. Today, Nikolaus Saahs and cellarmaster Katharina Salzgeber continue that legacy with wines that honor both history and terroir.

The 'Zwickl' is an unfiltered Hefeabzug — a style named after cloudy, unfiltered beer. Made since 2014, it's bottled with the sediment intact: pour from the top for a clear glass, or shake the bottle for a cloudy, yeast-forward pour. It's Gruner Veltliner at its most elemental — no filtration, just Danube Valley fruit from Mautern and Stein vinified in stainless steel.

The 2022 is five years old now and has seen plenty of sunshine. At 12.5% alcohol, it's built for the table. Grapefruit, chopped herbs, olives, a lightly salty mineral spine. Crisp apple fruit, white pepper, a flintiness and smoke that runs underneath. The leesy character adds a touch of creaminess at the finish without weighing the wine down. Winemaker Nikki Saahs recommended pairing it with steak — this is a white wine that doesn't back down from meat.

$32.99 for a 91-point, biodynamic Gruner from one of Austria's most important estates. The kind of wine that drinks like it costs twice that, and makes you wonder why you're still buying mass-market whites from the grocery store.