2023 Forge Cellars Cabernet Franc Caywood Vineyard New York 6pk 6x750ml

Louis Barruol — the man behind Chateau de St.-Cosme in the Rhone — came to the Finger Lakes and helped raise the benchmark for quality with Forge Cellars. The project debuted in 2011 with a few hundred cases of outstanding dry Riesling; by 2019, it had grown to 16 bottlings totaling 13,000 cases. This is what happens when old-world discipline meets cool-climate fruit.

Caywood Vineyard is one of the oldest sites for Cabernet Franc on the farm, planted in the early 1990s as part of the Gold Seal plantings. The vineyard is named after a clearly defined bygone route from the Lehigh Valley Railroad, with dirt path and railroad ties delineating rows of vines. Shallow topsoils and close proximity to the lake create Cabernet Franc with wild, savage character — more old-world in structure, with hints of earth and wild herbs.

After working with farmer John Wagner for over a decade, he offered this vineyard in 2023. In 2022, no red wine was made due to Mother Nature — which makes this 2023 all the more significant. The wine is more reserved than the very forward Willow, holding its cards close to the chest. Spicy, supple and quite deep, but also very elegant. Juniper, orange peel, chalky red berries and dusty flowers lend tons of complexity. A beautifully chiseled wine with ample structure and a little more firmness than the other Francs in the lineup.

This is a powerful, broad-shouldered Cabernet Franc built for the long haul. The team is hopeful for its aging prospects — a year or two in bottle will open it up.