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James Suckling foretold the future when he reviewed this wine in 2007. "(It) needs lots of bottle time." That time has passed, and this wine is now singing arias.
It all started in 1996, when the young Turin-born Paolo Monti, just 30-years-old at the time, acquired a historical estate in San Sebastiano, south of Monforte d’Alba. Today the company manages 45 acres, planted to Nebbiolo and Barbera, plus some experiments that have now become part of the Langhe area, such as Riesling Renano, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The house style is expressed through ten labels, each with its own personality. Most importantly the Barolos, through the great Cru of Monforte d’Alba, Bussia, makes Monti one of the leading Italian producers in the Langhe!
The 2003 Barolo is a blend of two vineyards in Monforte: Bussia and Bricco San Pietro. Although 2003 is remembered as a very hot vintage across Europe, this wine was picked at peak ripeness. It has a fresh acidity and the aging in bottle has benefited and softened the powerful Nebbiolo tannins. This is truly a tour de force wine that is a must for anyone who loves aged Barolo.
Paolo Monti represents the latter part of the wave of nouveau winemaking and the "Barolo Boys" of the 1980-90's who ushered in modern winemaking techniques and notably, the incorporation of new French oak into the wines of the region, just like in Bordeaux.
The label is a photograph from Tom Sandberg, a famous Norwegian photographer who has shown his work around the world including at the New York MOMA. Although the wine is sold in other countries with the original photo of the woman's rear end, the US TTB "censored" the label for sale in the United States. Hence, the name and banner and limited edition.
Aging: 28-30 months in 50% New French Oak/50% Second use Barrels. The wine is then blended and finished in French oak barrels for 18 months.
Tasting notes: 100% Nebbiolo. Compact color of deep garnet. A noble nose of blackberry, cherry, cinnamon, and spices. Beautiful, lively, large, and elegant mouth. Majestic and pounding tannins, defined freshness, superb depth. Well-dosed wood that leaves elegance and finesse. Gentle and ethereal perfume. Cinnamon and a touch of tobacco. The finish is alluring and the mouthwatering quality of this wine just makes you want to drink more.
BHW pried this away from an importer who is no longer carrying this brand. Our usual method is to buy it all at a drastically reduced price. It benefits him, us, and you. Don't miss this rare opportunity to taste a perfectly aged Barolo.
Shows plenty of plum, almost prune, character that verges on jammy. Full-bodied, with big, chewy tannins, yet this is soft and nicely textured. A mouthful for the vintage. Needs lots of bottle time. Best after 2010. 750 cases made. ~92 James Suckling, Wine Spectator
4 Grappoli ~ Duemilavini
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2003 Monti Barolo "Censored" DOCG
