2018 Henri Bonneau Reserve des Celestins Chateauneuf du Pape 6pk 6x750ml

Henri Bonneau represents the 12th generation of his family to make wine in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, dating back to 1667. His methods have more in common with the 17th century than with today's winemaking — no de-stemming, gentle crushing of whole clusters, three-week fermentations in concrete tanks. Barrel aging determines what becomes each specific cuvee, and only the best fruit earns the name Reserve des Celestins.

Reserve des Celestins is Bonneau's flagship wine — mythic in the region, sourced from the estate's vines in La Crau. La Crau's boulder-strewn plateau produces Chateauneuf's ripest fruit, and Bonneau harvests as late as possible for maximum ripeness and complexity. The result is massive, powerful, and built for decades of development.

The 2018 vintage ranks among the best in Bonneau's history. Marcel Bonneau took full control of winemaking starting with the 2016 vintage, after Henri passed away in March 2016. The wine is translucent ruby-hued with aromas of dried lavender, menthol, melted licorice, beef blood, cured meat, and Provencal garrigue. Full-bodied with supple, layered mouthfeel and striking verticality on both nose and palate.

This is fantastically complex, immense Chateauneuf — packed with fruit, licorice, and currant, along with severe, iron-like tannins. The finish is tight and persistent, alternating between silky and hard, cooked and pure, savage and demure, with truffle and chestnut flavors. J.M. called it "amazing" and gave it 98 points. It drinks like Bual Madeira infused with black truffles, yet somehow maintains a sense of freshness. Open it now or cellar it through the next decade.