Georgia Wines: 8,000 Years of Tradition, A Modern Renaissance

Georgia, often called the cradle of wine, has been producing wine for over 8,000 years. Archaeologists have found clay vessels—called qvevri (pronounced kway-vree)—dating back to 6,000 BC that held fermented grape juice and seeds. Yet despite this ancient heritage, modern Georgian winemaking only truly began in 1991, after the fall of the Soviet Union. Georgians are fond of saying that they are the oldest and newest wine region in the world.

Right now, Georgia feels like a wine goldrush. Everyone's jumping in.

More than 2,400 wineries already. 480 of them exporting. Over 120 signed onto the natural wine movement.

What's pulling people in isn't marketing. It's grapes you can't get anywhere else, made a way that's 8,000 years old and somehow still feels brand new. I've been drinking a lot of it lately. It's worth your attention.

Why Georgian Food and Wine Belong Together

You can't understand Georgian wine until you've eaten at a Georgian table. Sitting at the crossroads of the Caucasus, the food pulls from every direction — but the throughline is sour, bitter, and earthy.

The Supra: Georgia's Epic Feast

Georgians gather around the table for dinners or “supras” that can last six to nine hours. During this time, a leader, called the “tamada” is appointed to propose multiple rounds of toasts and it is expected others around the table will drink to these toasts. An endless array of dishes will be served and may be stacked two or three high. And, the meal will likely be accompanied by Chacha, the Georgian grappa, produced by distilling the marc leftover after fermentation of grapes and stems.

To complete the atmosphere of a traditional supra, music often plays a central role in setting the tone of the gathering.

Traditional Georgian Music at the Supra

Georgian folk music is polyphonic — several independent voices weaving at once, no instruments needed. It's the sound of a supra hitting its stride, somewhere around the fourth toast. Give it a minute with the sound up.

Classic Georgian Dishes Include:

• Khachapuri – A cheese bread, that is perhaps the most famous dish that can be served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. The cheese (typically a sulgini cow cheese) with regional variations is baked into and/or on top of a wheat bread or flaky crusted bread. The Adjarian version is boat-shaped with an egg and butter on top.
  

• Khinkali – Soup dumplings filled with spiced meat (usually beef or pork) or sometimes mushrooms, herbs, and cheese.
  

• Mtsvadi – Georgian barbecue, skewered and grilled meat, often lamb or pork, served with raw onions and pomegranate seeds. Typically, when the BBQ meats are served, this is a signal that the end of the meal is arriving.
  

• Lobio – A hearty bean stew, often flavored with garlic, herbs, and walnuts, served in clay pots.
  

• Pkhali – Vegetable pâtés made from spinach, beets, eggplant, or cabbage, mixed with ground walnuts, garlic, and spices. These are often served in round balls with bread as appetizers at the beginning of the meal. Eggplant slices with the walnut spread is one of the most delectable.

  

Bread & Staples

• Shotis Puri – Traditional bread baked in a tone (clay oven, similar to a tandoor).
  

• Churchkhela – Strings of nuts (usually walnuts or hazelnuts) dipped in concentrated grape must, dried into a chewy sweet. Often these are rolled in bread or oat flour. Often nicknamed “Georgian Snickers” you will find these hanging just about everywhere.
  

Sauces & Flavors

• Adjika – A spicy paste of red peppers, garlic, herbs, and spices, common in western Georgia.
  
• Tkemali – A sour plum sauce, used with meat, fish, and potatoes and omnipresent.

To match this diverse selection of foods (all of which may be served at a single supra), the wines often have astringency and freshness, especially in whites like Rkatsiteli (ruh-KAH-tsee-teh-lee) or amber wines made with skin contact. Reds like Saperavi, Georgia’s flagship red grape, offer bold concentration and higher alcohol, perfect for hearty meat dishes.

This short video highlights what makes Saperavi unlike any other red grape.

As a Georgian proverb says, “Every guest is sent from God.” Hospitality, food, and wine are inseparable. If you visit Georgia, plan to be treated very well and eat copious amounts of excellent food.

Georgia’s Wine Regions and Grapes

• 55,000 hectares of vineyards, which is less than half of what it was in Soviet era (1921-1991)
  

• 10 wine regions, 30 PDOs (protected origin).
  

• EST 300M bottles are produced per year
  

• Kakheti, in the southeast toward Caspian Sea, is the powerhouse: 50% of all Georgian grapes are grown here.
  

• Over 500 grape varieties exist, but only about 50 are commercially produced.
  

If you really want to simplify things, these are three key Georgian grapes you should know

• Rkatsiteli (pronounced ruh-KAH-tsee-teh-lee) (White) – Makes up over 50% of the annual harvest in Georgia. Crisp, versatile, and often compared to Trebbiano for the volume it delivers. There is great potential with this grape. The best expressions are blended with the more aromatic Mtsvane, have a level of lees stirring and a limited amount of oak aging.
  

• Mtsvane (White) – The name means “green” and those are the flavors you’ll find in wines from these grapes. Aromatic and fresh, used for lively whites. Think Sauvignon blanc flavors making crisp wines.
  

• Saperavi (Red) – A teinturier grape (red juice as well as skins similar to Ruby Cabernet and Alicante Bouschet). Produces inky “black wines” with bold tannins. This is a workhorse grape. Low in acidity, high sugar and high potential alcohol. Black as night. Papari Valley is considered one of the best growing areas.
  

Other Notable Grapes with Potential

• Kisi – aromatic, promising white with lovely floral aromas.
  

• Tsolikouri (tso-lee-KOH-ree)– light, Vinho Verde–like white for early drinking.
  

• Tsitska (tseet-skah) – high acid, good for sparkling wines.
  

• Aladasturi – historical red (name means “approved by Allah”), low alcohol (~11%). When Persian conquered Georgia, they insisted the Georgians pull up vines because Islam didn’t allow for drinking alcohol. However, when they came to collect taxes, the only thing Georgians could offer was grapes and wine. This grape was deemed an acceptable payment because it was “approved by Allah.”
  

• Shavkapito – lighter-bodied red, brickish in color, often compared to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. This may be one of the grapes with the most potential for producing elegant wines.
  

• Ojaleshi – Very interesting quality variety produced as semi-sweet or dry red, often perfumed, historically exported during Soviet times.
  

Given the preponderance of Rkatsiteli, this grape can often be found as a monovarietal. Most of the other white wines are blended by necessity as there just isn’t that much acreage planted to a lot of other indigenous varietals. The same can be said for red wines. Beyond Saperavi, most other reds wines are blended with only a few varieties produced as monovarietal. In addition, many of the older plantings we planted as field blends.

Ancient Technique, Modern Revival

Photo: Traditional Georgian Qvevri typically buried in the ground and used to ferment grapes

Only about 5% of Georgian wines today are made in qvevri, but this method defines the country’s wine identity. These clay amphorae, buried underground, naturally regulate fermentation temperature.

Wines aged this way are typically unfiltered, with earthy flavors and complex textures due to fermenting and extended aging (three-six months) on the skins and typically with the stems.

The Natural Wine Debate: Quality vs. Tradition

The problem is that this method requires extreme hygiene during production and unfortunately, many producers end up bottling too many wines with severe wine faults including high volatile acidity (vinegar smells) and other defects that make the wines limited for commercial sale except to niche “natural” wine consumers. As Lisa Granik, MW writes in her guide to Georgian wines, “Too many “natural” winemakers continue to pass off numerous flaws as a natural consequence of their winemaking philosophy. This is a dangerous practice that reinforces the notion that Georgian wines are flawed and dirty.”

Georgians refer to “modern” wines as “European” in style. Their “traditional” wines are the orange or “amber” wines produced in qvevri. However, many small producers lack modern training, hygiene, infrastructure and modern winemaking facilities to produce consistent, fine wines.

Ironically, while Georgia is the birthplace of wine, it’s also one of the newest players on the global fine wine stage. The post-Soviet era gave winemakers the freedom to focus on quality rather than bulk production. Nevertheless, many Georgian producers continue to rely on Russia as the main export market, representing 70% of all exported wine at an average export price of only $3 per liter. Exports are growing elsewhere, with Poland and other European markets leading demand. About 1 million liters are currently exported each year to the United States with a similar amount going to tiny Lithuania, given the Soviet link.

Wineries Worth Noting and to Look out for

• Vazisubani Estate – Outstanding Kisi, Tsolikouri, and blends. Founded by a founder of TBC bank, this is a beautiful estate producing clean, modern and traditional wines. It’s a winery worth making a detour to visit. Look out for the Vardazia Terraces white blend, Kisi, and Alexandrouli-saperavi blended red.
  

• Chateau Mukhrani – Historic estate since 1878 originally part of the Bagrationi royal family, which ruled Georgia from the Middle Ages until the 19th century when they were systematically murdered by the invading Soviets. The winery makes very refined Goruli Mtsvane and elegant reds like Tavkveri and Shavkapito. Look out for the wines labeled “Secret Collection” and “Royal Reserve”, including this beautifully structured 2020 Chateau Mukhrani Saperavi.
  

• Iago Winery – Pioneer of organic and natural winemaking since 2004. Located about one hour from Tblisi, the Mtsvane is an excellent introduction to “orange” wines made properly. His amber wines command high prices and are featured at trendy New York City restaurants like Chama Mama.
  

• Teliani Winery is the third largest winery in terms of volume in Georgia and is operating notable innovation and expertise. In addition, they are importing their own wines directly to the US which allows for consumers here to more easily find this brand. Stylistically, the wines are more polished and lean, as opposed to heavy, tannic or rustic. This is a good thing. And, because of the size of the winery, the wines are fairly priced.
  

• K’avshiri is a small brand launched by the British wine journalist Robert Joseph and an innovative young Georgian winemaker. They are producing blended wines that are lined priced for the red, white and rose.
  

• Shilda winery is producing high quality Rkatsiteli and a red blend under the Rustavelli (12th century Georgian poet) that would be appreciate by any Napa Valley Cabernet drinker.
  

• Peradze winery is led by the charismatic Irakli Peradze who is a biochemist by training and a retired telecom executive for Motorola. He is producing some of the most exciting wines in Georgia in a modern, clean style. Highly recommended.

These producers show the diversity and potential of Georgia: from rustic qvevri wines to clean, modern styles with international appeal. You’ll have to do some digging though, as only a handful of these wineries are being imported into the US and often in small quantities.

Georgia’s Wine Regions

Georgia has 10 wine regions and 32 PDOs (Protected Designations of Origin). Each area has its own history, climate, and native grapes. The best Georgian wines regions to visit include:

Kakheti

• Where: Southeastern Georgia, along the Alazani and Iori Rivers, stretching toward the Caspian Sea.
  

• Importance: Produces over 50% of Georgia’s grapes.
  

• PDOs: Includes Mukuzani (oak-aged Saperavi), Tsinandali (a white blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane), Kindzmarauli (semi-sweet reds), and Akhasheni (semi-sweet reds).
  

• Style: Known for powerful Saperavi reds and structured amber wines.
  

Kartli

• Where: Central Georgia, surrounding the capital Tbilisi.
  

• Style: Produces both traditional qvevri wines and modern stainless-steel whites. Notable for sparkling wines from Chinuri and Goruli Mtsvane.
  

Imereti

• Where: Western Georgia, near Kutaisi.
  

• Style: Fresher, lighter wines, often amber but with less skin contact than Kakheti. Whites like Tsitska and Tsolikouri dominate.
  

Racha-Lechkhumi

• Where: Northwest Georgia, in the foothills of the Caucasus.
  

• Style: Known for semi-sweet reds like Khvanchkara, made from Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli. Boutique production, highly prized.
  

Samegrelo

• Where: Northwestern Georgia, near the Black Sea.
  

• Style: Famous for Ojaleshi, often perfumed, sometimes semi-sweet, sometimes dry.
  

Adjara

• Where: Southwest Georgia, along the Black Sea coast.
  

• Style: Small but growing region, influenced by humid coastal climate, producing light whites and sparkling wines.
  

Guria

• Where: West Georgia, coastal and humid.
  

• Style: Known for Chkhaveri, used for rosé and sparkling wines.
  

Abkhazia

• Where: Northwestern Georgia, bordering Russia (politically disputed).
  

• Style: Historically known for semi-sweet reds and rustic wines.
  

Meskheti (Samtskhe-Javakheti)

• Where: Southern Georgia, near the Turkish border.
  

• Style: Ancient terraces being revived. Grapes like Tavkveri and Shavkapito are being replanted here.
  

Kvemo Svaneti & Upper Mountain Regions

• Where: High-altitude vineyards in the Greater Caucasus.
  

• Style: Extreme terroirs, experimental plantings, small production.

Why You Should Try Georgian Wine

• The grapes. Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, and Ojaleshi aren't grown anywhere else at this scale. If you like trying new varieties, start here.
• The value. Most of the good bottles run $15 to $35. That's a lot of quality for the money.
• The food. These wines were built for hearty, savory cooking. Pour one with a roast or a stew and it clicks.
• The history. Georgians have been making wine for 8,000 years. Very few wines come from a tradition that old.

Final Thought

Here's my honest take. Georgia is the oldest wine country in the world, and also one of the least developed. You'll find qvevri buried in the ground right next to young winemakers working in modern styles.

Not all of it is good yet. A lot of it isn't, and the industry has decades of work ahead before it's consistent with European standards.

But that's what makes it worth watching now. The quality is climbing, the prices are fair, and you can get to know a wine country while it's still early. That's reason enough to pay attention.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Georgian Wine

1. What makes Georgian wine unique?

Two things, mostly. The first is the grapes. Georgia has over 500 indigenous varieties, about 50 in commercial production, and almost none are grown anywhere else. The second is the qvevri, clay vessels buried underground where the wine ferments and ages on its skins and stems. That process gives the wines an earthiness and grip you don't get from steel tanks. Put unfamiliar grapes together with an 8,000-year-old technique and you get wine that tastes like nowhere else.

2. What is qvevri wine, and why is it important?

Qvevri (kway-vree) are large clay vessels, buried in the ground up to the neck. The wine ferments and ages inside, on its skins and stems, while the surrounding earth keeps the temperature steady. Only about 5% of Georgian wine is made this way today. But it's the method that made Georgia famous, and the reason it's credited as the birthplace of wine.

3. Which Georgian wines should I try first?

For newcomers to Georgian wine, here are a few must-try varieties:

• Rkatsiteli: A crisp, versatile white wine, often used in amber wine production.
  
• Saperavi: A bold red wine known for its dark, inky color and robust tannins.
  
• Mtsvane: A fresh, aromatic white wine, perfect for those who enjoy Sauvignon Blanc.
  
• Tsolikouri: A light, Vinho Verde–like white for easy drinking.
  
• Shavkapito: A lighter-bodied red, often compared to Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir, with great aging potential.
  

4. What foods pair well with Georgian wine?

Georgian wines are crafted to complement the country’s hearty cuisine. Here are some classic pairings:

• Khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) with a crisp Rkatsiteli.
  
• Khinkali (dumplings) paired with a bold Saperavi.
  
• Mtsvadi (Georgian barbecue) goes beautifully with a rich Saperavi or an earthy amber wine.
  
• Lobio (bean stew) pairs wonderfully with Tsolikouri for a fresh, herbal contrast.
  
• Pkhali (vegetable pâtés) with Tsitska, a high-acid wine great for matching with complex flavors.
  

5. Are there any other notable Georgian grape varieties?

Yes! There are more than 500 indigenous varietals in Georgia, although only about 50 are commercially produced. Some of the hidden gems you should explore include:

• Kisi – A floral, aromatic white that shows great promise.
  
• Ojaleshi – A perfumed red, available as both semi-sweet and dry.
  
• Aladasturi – A historical red with a unique backstory, making it a must-try for adventurous wine lovers.
  

6. Where is the best place to try Georgian wines?

While you can find Georgian wines in select wine shops worldwide, the Kakheti region in Georgia’s southeast is known as the heart of winemaking. If you’re traveling to Georgia, visiting wineries like Vazisubani Estate and Iago Winery will give you a firsthand taste of the local terroir and unique winemaking practices.

7. What is the difference between European-style wines and traditional Georgian wines?

In Georgia, “European-style wines” refer to wines made in modern facilities using stainless steel fermentation and aging. These wines tend to be cleaner, more approachable, and resemble European styles like those from France and Italy. On the other hand, “traditional wines” or amber wines are made using the ancient qvevri method, often unfiltered, and known for their earthy, complex flavors.

8. Why are Georgian wines gaining popularity?

Mostly timing. The wine world has shifted toward natural, low-intervention wines, and Georgia has been making wine that way for 8,000 years. With more than 120 wineries working in the natural style, it looks less like a trend and more like the original source. Exports are also growing in Poland and across Europe, and more adventurous drinkers in the US are finding it. The appeal is simple: the newest thing in wine is also the oldest..

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